Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Bloggin' On

So, here we are again, with half decent wifi and some time on our hands. Good opportunity to catch up on Mystic Journey's journey. Don't expect anything exciting or life-threatening. I remember when we were starting this odyssey, someone said we should write a book about our adventures and Cheryl said she sincerely hoped that nothing so exciting would happen that people would want read about it. For this blog at least, that fits the bill.

As you read in Judy's blog, they visited us from Calgary for a week. I must say that is was the wettest consecutive 7 days we have spent down here in the Caribbean. It was actually more like 10 days because the wet weather started 3 days before they got here. In spite of that, we were able to get some beach time, some sailing time and some exploration time in while they were visiting. Our first sailing day was to Marigot and we got some good winds on a broad reach (from the left side rear - kind of like between 7 and 9 o'clock on a clock, with 12 being the front of the boat). We made good time, 6-7 kts and Ivor earned his crew t-shirt by handling the helm for a good portion of the journey - no autopilot for crew!!!



Cheryl and I had never been to Marigot Bay and will not likely go again. Although it is quite picturesque, the only things there are restuarants and persistent boat boys trying to sell us the kitchen sink.



The next day we sailed down to the Pitons and found we were the only boat there. Perhaps the 30 kt winds and torrential rains had something to do with it. In any case, we were able to take our pick of mooring balls (there are 12 there and no anchoring is allowed). Oh, I must correct myself - the Marine Rangers moved in front of the largest mooring ball a little farther from shore than all the others. We figured it must have been reserved for a large yacht and sure enough, later that day in came a power yacht, not quite superyacht size but still a good 120 ft or so. They were woosies though - they left after experiencing the rains and winds for a couple of hours.

Judy mentioned that we started out on the trek to the top of Grand Piton but the weather was just too miserable. I have looked at the blog for Casting Off that Alex and Graham made of their trek and I must tell you, based on the distance we made that day, that is an impressive climb they made and both are heroes for completing it. See Casting Off's blog in our links.

Judy and Ivor left on Sunday morning and since we were going snakey from being in one place for too long (St Lucia) as well as still being hemmed in by the weather, we decided to go into Soufriere with the water taxi that picked them up to begin their trek to the airport and we would clear out of St Lucia. Our intent, which we were able to follow through on, was to leave for Bequia early Monday morning.

Our trip to Bequia was for the most part really good sailing in 18-20 kt winds and seas that varied from 2 to 3 meters. We had to change our sails while passing St Vincent as, due to being on the leeward side of the island, the wind dropped drastically and came around from the west instead of the east. We had considered coming down the windward side of the island to avoid that but had discussed it too late to make the switch. Maybe when we sail to Grenada.


Admiralty Bay is a good size anchorage that has become flooded with far too many illegal mooring balls dropped in by the various boat boys. Mooring balls are good things IF you know that the line down to the weight is strong and the knots are tied properly and the weights are enough. Unfortunately this is not the case in this bay. The marine authorities are apparently intending to rectify this and examine all of the balls to ensure they are safe but have not done so yet. Even though they are not legal, people still use them and the problem is if you anchor too close to one, the possible user of the ball may think they have the "right of way" which they don't. We anchored well away from them anyway, but another problem in this bay is the composition of the bottom. It is a kind of sandy gravel layered over a coral or rock bottom so it can be a problem getting the anchor to set properly. We had to lay down our anchor twice. The second time it seemed to catch so we let out lots of rode (chain). As it turns out, the wind came up really strong today and we got a little nervous about our anchor holding so we reset it in a different spot.

Bequia is a nice spot. The people are mostly friendly and the town is fairly clean and well made although, like most of the islands, the roads in town are narrow and quite rough. After we anchored we looked around and saw a bunch of boats of people that we knew either personally or from talking to on the Coconut Telegraph - Drum (Canadians), Allegro, Makai, Andiamo. Last night we attended a "Happy Hour" on one of the boats and met some new people. Kind of cool. Earlier in the day we met another Canadian from Vancouver - a doctor.

Of course repairs had to be done - we had mentioned in an earlier blog that when we were in St Lucia I had to replace the seawater foot pump in the galley. Well, when we got here I had to replace the freshwater foot pump in the galley. B O A T - Bring Out Another Thousand ($'s).

So here we are, nothing exciting happening and you know what - that is what we both need right now. Since last December we have been having to or waiting to "be somewhere" or "go somewhere" or "do something" so just sitting here and wondering when we will move to the next anchorage BUT knowing that it is not important is kind of nice.

Griff, Cheryl and Mystic Journey Bloggin' On

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Judy and Ivor - Exposed


New crew, Judy & Ivor, arrived at the airport on Sunday May 3 to a blanket of hot tropical air - cold, brown Calgary a faint memory. Immediately Ali, the taxi driver, offered to drive us up and across the entire island of St Lucia for a good price.



He bought us a cold Piton beer made locally. We stopped at Dennery for a kingfish kabob en-route to Rodney Bay, in the northwest corner of St Lucia. When we arrived, there were Griff and Cheryl, relaxed and on island time, reading and patiently waiting for the Albertan landlubbers who had been delayed an hour in a long airport line up.

The dinghy was full but we made it in one trip …. At last seeing “Mystic Journey” with our own eyes. We have been reading the yacht blog and understand that this dream week is the result of a lot of hard work on the part of Cheryl & Griff. Operating a yacht is not just throwing up the sails and cruising along, so it is with great appreciation that we have come to witness things first hand.

What a different experience … Judy’s first time on a yacht and there they were, eating bbq'd steaks on the aft deck of Mystic Journey!!

Great first day just swimming and lying on the deck ….Judy prefers the starboard side especially once she learned how sailors feed the fishes from “the head”. Sun was present despite the cloud cover and we soon had a pink hue to our faces and necks.

Off to Pigeon Island where they were preparing for the Island Jazz Festival bands this weekend. No need to pay admission - just lie in bed and listen to the music waft across the water under a moon lit sky. Life does not get any better than this!!

Later on we all enjoyed a meal, Dorado fish with beans and rice, at Jambe de Bois restaurant overlooking the bay and the twinkling lights of the town.

The next day after the crew hiked up to the top of the fort lookout, Griff and Cheryl battoned down the hatches and pulled out of the bay. It was amazing to watch the team work of the two Prairie cruisers as they set the sails. Off we went at about 6-7 knots with some nice winds. The Captain and Ship’s Surgeon turned the helm over to the Englishman who managed to get us to Marigot Harbor where we were immediately swarmed by Rastafarians selling carved manta rays and necklaces, t-shirts and fruit. Once we were attached to the mooring ball and had supper the estrogen team beat the testosterone team at cribbage (correction - Ivor and Griff’s version – the testosterone team, being the gentlemen that they are, allowed the ladies to come from behind and win).

The estrogen team leader, Judy, was like one of those gofers in Chucky cheese that you bonk on the head with a bat and they pop up somewhere else…Whack A Mole … with excitement but not a competitive bone in her humble body according to Griff!! (Me thinks he has had too much sun on his solar panel and it is shorting his wiring!!)


Next morning Judy reported for duty early to prepare for sailing. The Captain’s first orders were to clean the heads. “Neyt” said the Russian sailor!!! The mutiny had begun!! Of course Captain Whack a Mole and her English crewman saved the day and got us into The Pitons despite a minor squall and very little wind.



Next enter Captain Bob on his water taxi …totally looking for some gullible new cruisers to take to the cleaners …… off to Soufriere … He charged too much to take Ivor and I to town and drive to a couple of spots: his driver did not even get out to open the door for the new Captain … wish I was a Pirate so I could hang him from the gallows. Amidst the rain we walked inside a volcanic crater and saw iron mud boiling and folks covering themselves in black iron mud for the sake of their health!! (Too much liquid sun here) However it keeps their botanical gardens magical; St Lucia grows amazing flowers. Imagine seeing cashews growing no wonder they are so expensive!! Tried soursop fruit and yummy passion fruit, Cheryl did her magic in the kitchen with mangos and chicken.


We have been here for 5 days and have had more rain than we care for. Today is our driest day so we were enjoying the break and all set off to climb the Piton. Well we were dry until we got into the dinghy and Griff opened up the throttle and took us full speed into a howling wind…….it was as if someone was standing there throwing buckets of water at us…..in moments we were drenched and our feet were in a puddle of water. Just another memorable moment to go along with so many, like Cheryl’s homemade bread, brownies and great meals, the wonderful hospitality and the great teamwork that Cheryl & Griff display whether operating the yacht or just putting their heads together over a crossword puzzle.

We had a memorable week sailing down island and being with the cruisers was absolutely fabulous……….a huge thank you for the opportunity and the generous hospitality.
Bon voyage………Judy & Ivor