We have done some exploring and expect to do more. There is a park and village on the north end of the island that are both apparently worth seeing. the village, Rincon, contains buildings that were built by the original island inhabitants. The park has points of interest that I won't go into now as we will likely blog about it when we have been there.
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
A Little Bit About Bonaire
We have done some exploring and expect to do more. There is a park and village on the north end of the island that are both apparently worth seeing. the village, Rincon, contains buildings that were built by the original island inhabitants. The park has points of interest that I won't go into now as we will likely blog about it when we have been there.
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Bonaire at Last
Our first objective was to clear the south end of Curacao. We had considered sailing down to Klein Curacao the evening before so that we would start off further south and maybe get away with one beat from southwest to northeast. The wind had originally been forecast to be from the east and of course Bonaire is pretty well straight east of Curacao so we were looking for some way to get at least some wind into our sails. After checking the forecast last thing Tuesday we found it indicated that the wind might be from the ENE so we decided that leaving from Klein Curacao would likely put us directly into that.
In previous moorings we have tied up to, when there is a float with no line attached, you catch the metal loop on top of the float with your boat hook and the line then comes up out of the float. No problem. Well, when we saw two floats, both with loops on top, I assumed this is what we needed to do. NOT!! I put the boat hook into the loop and tried to pull it up and guess what happened – nothing – except that the boat was still drifting, I couldn’t unhook the boat hook, and I couldn’t stop the boat using just my arm strength on an 8 ft very slippery pole. Result – boat hook in the sea, boat not attached to the mooring and it is getting darker. Of course the boat is still moving and the underwater mooring lines are now under the boat. Next thing we knew, the mooring lines had caught on the prop and there was much clunking and banging under the boat. Cheryl was very quick to go to neutral (thank goodness) but now we had no way to power the boat and darkness was nigh! I grabbed my mask and jumped over the side and luckily was able to unwrap the mooring lines from the prop without having to take a knife to them, even though they were pretty thoroughly wrapped. While I was doing this Cheryl was putting the swim ladder over the side so I could get back on board.
Once we had power again, rather than look for moorings that had everything they were supposed to have (none in close proximity but we couldn’t really see that well by then), we decided to go to the double float that was closest, even though it also didn’t have a connect rope on its floats. I hopped in the water and Cheryl passed me down our lines, one on each side of the bow, and I connected them to the two floats so we could settle in for the night.
By the way, the water was wonderful – just what I needed after sailing all day!!!
Next day we moved over to another mooring. This one only had one mooring line but
Wednesday we cleared into Customs and Immigration. They were very friendly people and I am sure we are going to enjoy our time here. The map of Bonaire shows all the dive spots around Bonaire and Klein (little) Bonaire and there are so many it looks like a necklace on the map. A favourite way of diving here is to load your gear and tanks on a truck and drive around the shore road. All the dive spots are signed on the road so you just get out, walk in, swim to the drop-off and Bob’s your uncle. More about all this later.
THE VIEW FROM MYSTIC JOURNEY
Monday, October 20, 2008
Sightseeing in Curacao
There are two markets in the Punda. The Central Market which was just stalls of merchandise whenever we were there. No produce or fish etc. The floating market, which from the street just looks like regular market stalls, consists of boats which come up from Venezuela on a daily basis with fresh fruit and veggies.
The Floating Market from the Waterside
The Floating Market from the Streetside
The day we rented the car we headed out to West Punt the western end of the island. Driving through the country side was reminiscent of Southern Ontario as far as vegetation goes until you saw the big 'clumps' of tall cacti. Definitely an arid landscape which is green right now because of the rainy season. We left the main road and headed for Santa Martha where the villa is situated.
Shortly after leaving the main road, at Jan Kok, I noticed a large area of shallow water and almost at the same time Griff noticed a sign that said Flamingo Observation Area. We stopped the car and walked back to the observation platform. Sure enough there were flamingos in the distance - very pink with long necks and legs and the curved beaks that made them good as crochet mallets in ‘Alice in Wonderland’. After taking a few pictures we continued on our way to Soto. We noticed a small sign at an intersection that said Santa Martha Bay and Sunset Waters Resort which was what we were looking for. Off we went down what was indicated on the map as a secondary road. The fellow at the car rental place had warned us that the road we would be on was very steep and twisty. Twisty it was, but no worse than some of the back roads in the mountains and definitely not as steep.
Finally we arrived at the resort. We asked at the resort’s office were we could find ‘Lucy’s Place’, the place we will be staying at. They told us where it was and off exploring we went. The beach area was closed due to damage from the storm (Omar) that we had experienced a couple of days previously. There was little sand on the beach and a lot of coral debris washed on shore and up over the road. We talked with a fellow in the dive shop and he said they hadn’t had a storm with such damage for over 20 years. Here’s hoping it’s at least another 20 years until the next one.
We could see ‘Lucy’s Place’ on the cliff overlooking the lagoon/bay and the place we could anchor the boat below. We stopped at the villa on our way back. It has an average sized yard and a patio overlooking the bay. The area was fenced and the gate locked so we could not look any closer.
Just before returning to Soto we passed the Landshuis St. Martha. This is an old plantation house and land that is now a ‘museum’. There are a lot of these sites throughout the island. They have all been restored to show what life was like when they were built 300 years ago. Unlike plantations in the other parts of the Caribbean these were not primarily for sugar cane, but were basically mixed farming and stations for the slave trade. Now the one at St. Martha is a sheltered workshop for the mentally handicapped. They work the farm and build and restore wooden furniture and baskets.
From there we headed back to Spanish Waters passing a small wind farm along the eastern coast of the island.
The day before we left the island, when we went to Customs and Immigration to check out, we did a little more exploring of Willemstad. We went to the Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue and the Kura Hulanda Area. The synagogue has the record of the Jewish community on the island. The congregation has been here since 1675 and the synagogue, built in 1730, is the oldest in the western hemisphere. The Kura Hulanda Area is located in the Otrobanda. A kura originally was a residential area with a house in the middle surrounded by outbuildings and a wall. The Kura Hulanda is now a museum, hotel and little shops and cafes. The museum is dedicated to the history of the slave trade and African art and culture. Because of time restraints we could not spend as much time here as we would have liked. We plan on returning in December and maybe then we can do a more complete blog on the history of slavery on the island.
Friday, October 17, 2008
Some Storm Pictures
THE SQUALL!!!
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Brand New Experience
The anchorage after a squall on Wednesday
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
EXCITEMENT ++++ !!!
After we left the internet boat we headed over to one of the marinas to drop off our laundry, but no one was there so we decided to take the bus in towards Willemstadt to another laundry that had been mentioned on the cruisers' net. We were waiting for the 'big, green bus' when it started to rain and soon it was downpouring. Soon the tree we were standing under was not much protection. Fortunately for us there was a couple just finishing a bike ride and getting into their car. They asked us where we were going and then gave us a ride. They worked for a Canadian and actually knew where Alberta is. The rain had stopped by the time we got to the laundry so we decided to walk to the store and then try walking back to the fisherman's wharf just to see how long it would take. After we had been walking for 30 minutes a fellow stopped and offered us a ride. We accepted and in about 2 minutes we were at the wharf so it wouldn't have taken us much longer to walk the rest of the way.
Now to the rest of the excitement. That morning when we woke up the wind and current had shifted and we were now facing into the bay and were quite a bit further north than we had been (you can check our position at the position report link). We stayed that way all day. About midnight we awoke to wind and rain. The wind had picked up to about 20 knots. We were hearing airhorns, use to alert boats to danger, from around the anchorage. Griff went on deck to keep an eye on things and noticed a little boat had broken loose from its anchorage and had run into Gabrielle which is the boat in front of us. The little boat seemed to have stopped so we figured its anchor had probably hooked on Gabriell's chain. The rain and wind settled down about forty minutes later only to return about 0230 with a vengence.
When daylight arrived, no sunshine, the storm was still in full force. We checked the weather from the National Hurricane Centre to discover that the Tropical Depression that was stationary about 250 miles south of Haiti was now moving southeast at 2 - 3 knots and warnings were being given that it was likely going to turn into a Tropical Storm. At that point it will get a name. That movement has put it about 150 miles north of us and we are feeling the effects of the edge of the system. Hopefully, for us, it will move as forcast and turn to head northeast again. We will probably have this weather until Thursday.
Back to the little blue boat that had hit Gabrielle. We were right about it being caught on Gabrielle's anchor chain. They hailed us on the VHF radio at 0800 to tell us that it had now broken free of their chain and had drifted some until its anchor took hold, but it is only a 10 pound anchor. Griff sat on deck to keep and eye on it and soon someone came in a dinghy and started the boat and moved it back into the bay. Not much activity in the anchorage this morning other than on the radio.
Update - As of 1100 the tropical depression has been upgraded to Tropical Storm Omar which is still moving southeast. The difference in categories is the speed of the wind. In a tropical storm the sustained winds are 45mph. They are forecasting gusts up to 50 today and possibly 65 tonight. It's amazing how much stronger even 20mph winds feel at anchor rather than when you are sailing. And it definitely feels stronger than a similar force wind at home on the acreage. There is a lot of wind chop on the water today. That is the effect of wind over waves. It isn't as bad in the part of the anchorage we are in because there isn't an open expanse of water in front of us. We will add pictures later when WiFi is working better.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Curacao - First Impressions
Our first impression of Curacao is that it is definitly not a tropical island as we most often think of them. It is a very low island, difficult to see from a distance and with none of the lush tropical, rainforest type vegetation that we have been used to seeing.
In fact it looks a lot like southern Alberta or the interior of British Columbia. Lots of cacti and desert type vegetation. The guide book says it has a dry desert climate and scant rainfall, although we have had thunderstorms and downpours daily since our arrival.
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Last of the Trip
This is the first time we had seen so many boats out and about any distance from the islands we
had visited. We rounded the south end of Curacao and after about a 1.5 hour trip up the coast we arrived at Spaanse (Spanish) Waters, a huge lagoon/bay with a number of small islands inside the bay itself. The guide showed us there were 4 areas we could anchor and we weren't sure which would be best. Denny, our friend we had met in Grenada, was there and came aboard to "coach" us. Denny is the one whose website is on our link and who has been sailing since 1979. We met him in Grenada and saw him again in Trinidad. He left there to go to Venezuela and then do the outer islands and then continue west, expecting to be in Cartegena by this time. Unfortunately he had some back problems so has been getting treatment here but that was good for us because we both enjoy his company.
More of Grenada to Bonaire
In addition to the darkness, we discovered something we hadn’t noticed before about being below decks while sailing. It can be very noisy. The wind seems to whistle louder, the mast seems to creak more and the wave action seems exaggerated. For me that meant that I assumed things were worse than they were weather-wise and I didn’t want Cheryl to start feeling worried about things. For Cheryl, unfortunately one of the things that happened, more in the beginning than towards the end, was that being below in the types of swells we were having, there was a tendency towards queasiness.
Anyway, that situation gradually improved and although we were a little tired during the trip, it never affected how we sailed or put us in any peril from foolish mistakes due to sleepiness. As far as staying awake and alert during watch, I discovered that if I stood outside the cockpit and watched the water and looked at the stars, there was such a sense of peace that I didn’t notice the time. As most of you know, I am not a religious person although I have a very strong sense of spirituality. However, I challenge anyone to come to sea, look up to the skies on a night when there are no other lights and tell me that it all has a strictly scientific basis or that we are the only living creatures in the vastness that you see out there.
There is one other source of light out on the briny and that is the phosphorescent particles in the sea itself. As you sail along and the wave breaks where the boat cleaves through the water, these particles come to the surface. They look exactly like a whole host of fireflies swimming in the water beside the boat except they are green. It is so cool. I must admit I also get a real kick when using the head (toilet to you lubbers). When you pump the water up from the sea to rinse the bowl, the phosphorescence is drawn up and swirls around the bowl. Hey – you have to take your entertainment where you can find it. In one of the heads, the hose that brings up the water is semi-transparent and it is really weird to see the hose start to shine as you pump. Enough of that.
As far as rest is concerned, we were able to take catnaps during the day and it was not physically demanding except for changing the whisker pole from side to side and doing the sail work associated with that.
People have asked what we talk about when we are sailing for long periods of time. I’ve thought about that and to tell the truth, I am not sure. It might be how the boat is handling the seas or the seas are handling the boat. We talk of the people we love back home and we talk of the future, whether on the boat or off. Sometimes we talk of our beliefs and how we have lived our lives. The nice thing about our relationship is that sometimes we don’t talk at all and it is very comfortable in the silence. We have discovered that dead air doesn’t need to be filled all the time because it actually has a life of its own based on our relationship. I’m not sure if that makes sense to others but the only way I can answer is with my own perceptions.
Back to a bit of day by day. By Friday morning we were past Tostigos and heading toward La Blanquilla. We had a schedule to adhere to in that we wanted to arrive in Los Roques in the daylight to deliver the parts to Mustang Sally. Los Roques has very tricky channels to traverse to get to where the anchorages are situated. We could have asked Mustang Sally to send a dinghy out but the seas we were in would likely have swamped them. As it turned out it is a very good thing we chose not to do that. More later.
Although the forecast had been for 10-15 kt winds, in reality we were getting 7-10 knots and the favourable westward current that is supposed to add 2-3 kts to our speed in fact only gave us about ½ kt. We were still managing 5 kts with those conditions but we needed 6 kts to keep to schedule so the first and second nights, when the wind died down to nothing, we were forced to do some motor sailing. I am not by any means a purist as far as sailing. Some folks will sail with 5 kts of wind at 3 kts per hour because they say they are sailors. If we are going somewhere, part of the purpose of the trip is the sailing but equally as important is the arrival so we were willing to motor. The down side of course is that on a downwind run with weak winds, the diesel fumes from the motor tend to blow forward through the cockpit. Sometimes it was like following a bus through downtown. Not often though.
So we sailed past La Blanquilla on the starboard side after first passing Los Hermanos, some small islands that, although uninhabitable, are in fact higher out of the water and easier to see. Blanquilla is actually about the halfway mark between Grenada and Bonaire so we were happy to see it go by and to be able to figure out that we would be in Los Roques in daylight. It is difficult to set a schedule for sailing long distance because of course certain parameters need to be met such as how much wind from what direction, how much current from which direction, which conditions suit the particular boat etc etc so we were happy to be halfway to our destination and probably two thirds of the way to our “Angel of Mercy” destination and still on time.
Back to questions people ask - did we see wildlife? Well, until the Bonaire to Curacao crossing, the only thing was saw, well, actually that Cheryl saw, was a big bully of a frigate bird picking on a brown boobie, which was holding its own but badly outweighed. Oh and we saw some flying fish, although not nearly as many as we have seen in other parts of the Caribbean. Bonaire to Curcao is another story which I will tell in another blog.
Final question I can think of right now is what do we do to fill our time. We didn’t seem to have a problem with that. I mentioned to Julie that three days of sailing is easily done unscheduled. Three weeks I for one would have to figure out what I wanted to do with my time. For this trip we had conversation, naps, our DS (Thanks again Jason), books, watching the sea, playing with the sails and whisker pole arrangements, eating and I guess whatever else there was to do that I have forgotten. I never found myself bored although there were certain times of day or night that seemed t o drag. Mornings always seemed longer for me than afternoons – not sure why. 3-5 in the morning sometimes dragged. Overall, time was not a problem on this trip.
Sails set wing-on-wing
After our second night at sea, dawn came bright and early and we actually had enough wind from the rear to run at a broad reach which was a wonderful change. It is amazing how the boat responds when it gets wind it likes. Without looking at the instruments you can tell that we are getting something good. A “swish” comes from the bow where the boat divides the water and although this sounds strange, Mystic Journey behaves like a horse that has just scented water after a dry day. It kind of leaps forward. I had read this before and heard all the terms and thought “Oh yeah, silly sailor talk” but it is true.
As we approached Los Roques we got into radio contact with Mustang Sally and made arrangements exactly where we would meet them so they could dinghy out to us. Of course the sailors’ equivalent of Murphy chose that time to play tricks. We had gone through the channel to get to the inside of the islands. Los Roques as you have probably guessed means the rocks and is a group of islands fairly close together. La Grande Roque has 3 rather big hills on it so is easy to spot but the other islands are quite low and hard to spot. We had come in the channel between 2 islands and then turned southwest between 2 other islands and then back west to come up the coast of La Grande Roque where Mustang Sally was anchored. We had left the mainsail out because we could use it to power the boat (along with the motor) and also because the main sheet was way out and also because if we took it down we would have to put it back up and my work avoidance principles had to be adhered to. We had taken our other sails down and as I said, we were coming up to the anchorage where they were to dinghy out and pick up the package. Murphy said “now’s the time” and up comes a squall behind us. We were down to about 2 kts by that time and the squall was travelling about 25 kts with winds, as we discovered, up to about 35 kts. It hit us just before we got to the anchorage. If it had come from straight behind it would have been less of a problem but of course winds in a squall can be like a hurricane in that there is a circular motion. Bottom line, it hit us all at once – no gradual build-up but WHACK. Mystic Journey heeled over to probably 50 degrees. Our toe rail was underwater. When that happens it feels like all ability to steer is gone which in a way is true. We needed to get the main sail down but two problems – to put it down properly the sail should be heading directly into the wind and to do this properly the sail should be centered on the boat. Of course neither of these conditions were being met. We applied “much” power to the throttle and attempted to come around which of course kept our mainsail side on to the wind and kept us heeled over. I was finally able to bring the boat around enough so that even though the boat wasn’t directly into the wind the sail was (don’t forget it was way out to the side). At that point we let loose the main halyard (that holds the mainsail up) and I kept the sail as much directly into the wind as I could. This is necessary because the sail is held to the mast with sail slides and in order for the sail to come down, the sail should be loose so the slides can slide. If the wind is pushing on either side of the sail, the slides bind and the sail doesn’t come down OR, the sail at the mast comes down but the rest is blown off to the side of the boom. Too much sailor stuff but I’ll get back to the squall. By keeping the sail centered into the wind, it finally came down, although it wasn’t pretty. While all this was going on Doug and Wendy from Mustang Sally were in their dinghy but hanging on to the side of their boat watching our antics.
As quick as it came, the squall was gone and Doug and Wendy came out and got their part and kindly gave us some homemade peanut butter cookies. In 15 minutes we were out the west passage and on our way again. Of course we had to turn into the wind to put up the main again. We discovered while doing this that the seas had come up and we had 9-10 ft swells coming from the northwest and the winds had begun to blow a steady 18-20 knots. GREAT sailing weather – except we had a problem.
You may recall reading in our blog about the trip back from Trinidad to Grenada that we had to take sails down because we were going too fast and didn’t want to get to the anchorage in the dark. Guess what – now that we were free from the delivery schedule, our need was to get to Bonaire in daylight and WE WERE GOING TOO FAST!! This time we couldn’t slow down. The “lost current” had found us and we could not get down to less than 6 kts. We eventually even took down the mainsail but of course we had to have some power to keep some control of the boat so to make a long story short, we got to the shores of Bonaire at 4:00 AM where we very slowly motored along using our chart plotter to keep us away from shore until we could see.
I can’t describe the exact feelings we experienced as we motored towards the bay where we hoped to pick up a mooring ball and stay. Satisfaction, pride, tiredness, a bit of let down, apprehension about whether there would be moorings available. They are very “green” in Bonaire and in order to keep the coral safe, they do not allow any anchoring. There is one good marina, two not so good marinas and 40 mooring balls. I had gotten a reply to an email I had sent to them about 6 weeks earlier that said there were always mooring balls available but about 5 days before, we heard from someone who sailed there that they had gotten the second last one.
Tune into the next blog to find out!!!
If you want to get a sense of what is like to sail on Mystic Journey check out the video on the Perry's blog in our Other Link section.
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Next Day
Well, although I didn't get back to this last night, at least I didn't forget. Last time I talked about sailing with the Perry family and what a great time it was. We had been scheduled to leave the next day for Bonaire, with a stop to drop off a part of another boat in Los Roques. I am not going to describe locations - the internet is a great source of information - but I will say the route would take us past Los Tostigos, La Blanquilla, Los Roques and the Ave's before we got to Bonaire, which
is part of the Netherland Antilles (whoops - forgot). Due to some stores being closed for stocktaking on the Tuesday and also due to the fact we had not done enough things in advance, we decided to leave on Thursday instead of Wednesday. Part of this was also due to the fact we had not intended to leave until after lunch on Wednesday and thought we could do our catch-up in the morning but since we wanted to arrive in Los Roques in daylight we needed to leave earlier. Whatever the reasons, we
spent Wednesday preparing for our Thursday voyage.
Thursday morning we cleared customs, topped up the diesel and water tanks and by 10:30 were on our way. It was a bright sunny day with good winds, at least when we started out and aside from wind shifts and the swells changing direction a couple of times, we made fairly good progress. We had never sailed wing-on-wing before but had practiced putting up the lines and the whisker pole so we decided to try it later in the day. We discovered that in theory it can work well. In practice, certain conditions
have to be in place. For instance the wind needs to be of sufficient strength to fill the sails and even more important, the wind is much better when it comes from a slight angle, one side or the other. This is particularly true if the wind is not strong. The choice of which side to put the main sail and which side to put the foresail is also made easier by the slight angle. Of course you put the main sail on the side towards which the wind is blowing. Even allowing for the slight angle, if the wind
is not strong enough, the sails have a tendency to back fill and then "slap". I won't explain that but sufficient to say it is not good and very annoying. This also happens if you make the wrong choice about which side to put which sail.
So, we learned and we practiced and we got pretty good at moving the whisker pole to one side or the other. Oh, did I mention that the God's of wind just love newbies to try new things so that, for example, as soon as they get the sails on the right side and the lines strung and everything looks good, The Gods will change the wind direction.
We managed to fill the day with busyness and learning and yes Julie we did eat. By nightfall we were ready to rest. We had decided to try watch-standing as our friends on Southern Cross do it. Dee stands the first watch to midnight and Don does the next 6 until dawn. Since I am usually in bed and asleep first, we decided I would sleep early and work late and Cheryl would do the opposite of course. This would likely have worked well if I had been able to sleep in the early evening and if Cheryl had
been able to sleep when her watch was done. I ended up bobbing up and down the companionway all evening either trying to find a place where I would fall asleep or else worrying about what the boat or the weather was doing. By 11:00 PM I gave up and told Cheryl she might as well try to sleep. Of course that didn't happen either but we both made it to the morning and I will leave it there for now.
Don't forget, this is by SSB radio so shorter is better. Next blog I will talk more about the beauty and joy of what we are doing on this trip rather than the problems we experienced.
Friday, October 3, 2008
Catching Up
I'm writing this as we sail to Bonaire (with an Angel of Mercy stop in Los Roques to deliver a part to a boat. It is a Cataraman - Mustang Sally - but we can excuse that because they are Canadian!!) from Grenada. We thought it was time to catch up with the last few days because Bonaire will start a new page in our adventure book.
After Cheryl's delightful birthday party at the Perry's apartment we all went back to Mystic Journey the next day for a sail. We got there around 10 if my memory serves me (time IS different here!!) and after squaring everything away, we sailed out of Prickly Bay for parts unknown. Actually we knew where we were and we knew where we were going but it sounds adventurous to say it that way. Graham took the wheel as we left the bay and in fact sailed for the whole trip. When I helped Graham take Artemo
to St Davids he gave me the same privilege and I remember how nice it felt to sail once again behind the wheel. At that time we hadn't sailed for about 5 weeks and it rejuvenated me so since Graham hadn't sailed since being back in Canada I thought I would return the favour.
For those of you who have checked the Position Report link on the blog you may have noted 2 points south of Grenada - that was where we sailed on Tuesday. Julie, Alex and Amelia spent some time sitting on the side with their feet dangling (see Casting Off's blog) and then Alex and I moved further up the boat and sat with feet dangling while we discussed a wide variety of topics. It is really great to talk to Alex and Millie like that because they are so wise and so knowledgeable - not just for their
age but in all aspects.
Cheryl kind of hung out doing her thing - talking about the boat and the upcoming trip and as soon as we got back she was busy making lunch for all. Not to say that making lunch is her thing but that day it was!!
We got back to Prickly about 2:30 and the kids (and I) were immediately in the water, soon joined by Julie and Graham. Too soon, however, they had to head back and we said our farewells. It was really somewhat sad - but in a good way. We had so enjoyed having them around and now we were leaving but we also know that we will see them as soon as they possibly can after they get Artemo back in the water.
Well, since I am sending this through our SSB link and it is better to keep things short, I will close this blog and later tonight or early tomorrow while I am standing watch I will see if I can bring you all up to the present date and time